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As the autumn/winter 2026 men’s fashion shows wrapped a few weeks ago in Paris, it became clear that the world of menswear is divided into two extreme camps: those who embrace experimental fashion with a capital F, and those who are interested in making clothes that are easy to wear. Our Legacy, a Swedish industry darling that received LVMH funding in 2024, titled its most recent collection Just Clothes. It doesn’t get much more straightforward than that.
What a relief for men everywhere, especially those looking for new jeans. The best pairs of the moment are those not saying much. The winners have straight legs, fitted waistlines that are not tight (but not falling off either) and hems that go all the way to the shoes.
In the early 2000s, an explosion in fabric technical innovation in the denim market made way for super-skinny styles, created by adding spandex, while new chemical treatment processes encouraged experimentation with faux-fading and distressing. It was only a matter of time before we all got fatigued by the number of styles, colours and concepts available.
Today we lust over the more uncomplicated approach of classic American sportswear. I’d place a large wager that old imagery from Ralph Lauren and Levi’s is on dozens of designer mood boards at the moment. Leading the “American workwear” pack and creating covetable denim along with it are a slew of Japanese brands, from a.Presse and orSlow to Auralee. They have all gained notoriety in the past few years for seemingly no-fuss styles that, on closer inspection, are created through an obsession with fabric and detail.
Take Auralee’s hard twist denim trousers (£380, auralee.jp). They are made from a fabric the brand created itself which it describes as “made from slub yarns tightly twisted to their limit and rope-dyed in pure indigo, resulting in a dry, crisp hand with a subtle, natural stretch”. In other words, the denim is obsessively woven to create something that will comfortably move with you but retain its shape with zero stretch. Denim-heads — the term I use for obsessives — are free to scrutinise these specifics while the rest of us benefit from a simplicity of shape.
This dark blue indigo is one of two popular colour stories right now. The second is a faded wash with faint distressing from the hips to the knees. Both these colours fit in with the current workwear zeitgeist. They almost suggest that nature has taken its course — or has yet to — distressing them just so.
A second indigo style I often recommend to clients is Atlanta-based Sid Mashburn’s Clift jean in stretch denim (£160, sidmashburn.com). It is crisp, comfortable and says the perfect amount of nothing for those who don’t want their jeans to do a lot of talking. Its straight leg is tailored, but not tight. The little bit of stretch makes it a good pair for men to ease into the concept of untreated denim, which can often take a bit of a break-in process to enjoy. Easily worn on day one with everything from a hoodie to a blazer, they are the blank slate many men are looking for.
Japanese brand orSlow labels its denim colours by year. My favourite is the 105 standard fit in two-year wash, which is meant to resemble denim that has been broken in and worn for two years (£246, stuartslondon.com). It’s dark enough to dress up and the faint, natural-looking fade makes it a relaxed option for the weekend if paired with a polo shirt and sneakers. Swedish brand Jeanerica similarly fine-tunes its washes to give a subtle sense of wear. Try the Vega style in “Blue 2 Weeks” for a more vibrant take on indigo (£220, jeanerica.com).
It might just be impeccable timing but Hanover, a new brand out of the US, is capitalising on this moment of simple clothes. The brand offers one denim style in three colours: the Drift jean in black, indigo and a light blue wash that is “subtly faded” (£115, hanover-usa.com). Made from a midweight denim, they are soft, comfortable and will hold their shape — a great prospect for those who like the idea of vintage Levi’s without the saga of hunting for a perfect pair.
Of course, it would be wrong to write an entire column on classic denim without mentioning the founding fathers of the category. Levi’s makes a wide range of straight, simple jeans. Too many to choose from, to be honest. To narrow it down, opt for a 501 (£130, levi.com) or 505 style (£80, levi.com) with no to low stretch in a dark rinse. Or look for one of the brand’s speciality sub labels that use premium fabrics, such as Levi’s Vintage Clothing or Blue Tab.
Our Legacy’s Just Clothes idea might be a modest description for a collection that was zealously nurtured, but the simplicity and wearability of the final product are a reminder of the importance of design. Mr Porter calls the brand’s Carlson straight leg jeans “as classic as they come” (£330, mrporter.com). A perfect pairing of fit, fabric and unfussy design. Everything a pair of jeans of today should be.
Ask Becky
Becky Malinsky is a New York-based personal stylist. Every month, she answers readers’ questions about fashion and what to wear. Have a question for Becky? Email her at becky@beckymalinsky.com
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